A Day in Aix-en-Provence: In the Footsteps of Cézanne
Experience Aix-en-Provence like Paul Cézanne, where golden streets, lively markets, and Belle Époque charm inspired the master of modern art.
A view of the city and mountains in Aix-en-Provence | Photo by Clement Dellandrea
by Sylvia Marie
7 de ago de 2025
Sun-drenched hills, orchards brimming with ripe fruit, and rustic villages perched above vineyards—Provence has long captivated artists, poets, and travelers seeking a gentler rhythm of life. I pedaled my way through—and up!—the beautiful landscapes of this mountainous region in southeastern France and landed in a city that embodies the very soul of Provençal charm: Aix-en-Provence.
Known for its elegant fountains, sunlit stone facades, and leafy boulevards, Aix is more than just a postcard-perfect town—it's a living canvas. In fact, this is the birthplace of the post-impressionist master, Paul Cézanne, and this city was his muse. While there, I got inspired to experience the city as the artist might have if he were alive in this decade.
To trace Cézanne’s life in Aix-en-Provence is to let go of the tourist checklist and follow a slower, more deliberate rhythm—as is the theme of my life and The Vagabond Gazette. He was a worker, a local, a man in love with his landscape. If you want to walk through Aix as Cézanne did, you can't just see it, you must observe it.
Wake With the Light
Cézanne often rose at dawn to take advantage of the soft morning light. Start your day early in the Mazarin Quarter, just steps from where Cézanne would have walked. Stroll around and grab a coffee to go at Café Lumière and watch the sun gild the stone buildings as the city yawns awake. For a quiet place to write or sketch, head to Book in Bar—an Anglo-French book café beloved by artists and students, where pastries and dim light meet soft conversation.
The Mont Sainte-Victoire | Photo by Viktor Hesse
Head Toward Mont Sainte-Victoire
Hire a car or take a guided morning hike through Bibémus Quarry (Carrière de Bibémus)—the ochre-red rock where Cézanne often set up his easel. It’s about 6 km from the city center. Today, you can visit the quarry through the Office de Tourisme’s guided walking tours (book ahead for summer slots—they fill up fast).
A free option that is much closer to the city center is to head to the Field of the Painters (Terrain des Peintres) for a beautiful and distant view of the famous mountain. Though not his main painting site, Cézanne enjoyed the view of his beloved mountain from here.
This landscape was more than a backdrop—it was Cézanne’s obsession. He painted Mont Sainte-Victoire over 80 times, searching for its essence in shape and shadow.
A Provençal Lunch Back in Town
After a morning spent tracing light and lines through Aix, return to the heart of the city for a Provençal midday meal that’s heartfelt, affordable (for Aix) and in tune with Cézanne’s sensibilities. Go to La Ruelle, tucked away on Rue des Tanneurs. Its courtyard setting, seasonal market ingredients, and dishes like grilled vegetables or grilled fish make it a tranquil, budget-conscious choice—typically under €20 for the plat du jour. Alternatively, head to Les Baratineurs on Place des Cardeurs. A lively yet unpretentious brasserie-style spot, it offers Mediterranean-brushed fare with enough local flavor to ground the experience.
For a true artist’s pause, skip formal dining and assemble your own rustic lunch. Pick up a crusty baguette from a nearby bakery (think Rue d’Italie), and a wedge of local goat cheese or Tomme from La Fromagerie du Passage or swing by the lively market at Place Richelme for olives or fruit for a fuller, Provençal-style spread.
Food in hand, stroll to one of these peaceful green spots for a picnic:
Parc Rambot – a shaded, serene park southeast of the old town.
Jardin du Pavillon de Vendôme – a formal 17th-century garden with elegant stone benches and quiet charm.
Terrain des Peintres – an open hilltop just above Aix offering sweeping views of Montagne Sainte‑Victoire, the painter's muse.
And don’t forget to try a calisson, Aix’s signature sweet: a delicate, diamond-shaped confection of candied melon and almonds, topped with a thin layer of royal icing. More than just a treat, it’s a bite of local history—said to date back to the 15th century and still made by hand in traditional confiseries around town.
Visit Cézanne’s Studio (Atelier de Cézanne)
Walk up the hill to Atelier Cézanne, just 15 minutes north of the old town. Built in 1902, this is the studio where Cézanne painted many of his late still lifes and portraits. It's been preserved almost exactly as he left it—with his straw hat on a peg, jugs and skulls on the shelves, and filtered northern light pouring in.
Entry: €9.50, with free audio guides in multiple languages. Book your visit online via the Atelier Cézanne website or at the Aix Tourist Office.
Visit His First Drawing School—Now a Museum
Step into Église Saint-Jean-de-Malte, the striking Gothic-style church where Cézanne was baptized. Its tall spire and austere stone interior offer a glimpse into the spiritual and architectural backdrop of his early life. Just next door, visit the Musée Granet—once the École de dessin d’Aix, the free municipal art school where a young Cézanne enrolled in 1857. Today, it’s a celebrated museum housing several of his works, along with rotating exhibitions that explore his legacy and the artists who shaped—and were shaped by—his vision.
For those interested in how Cézanne shaped modern art, visit Granet XXe near the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs. Opened in 2013, this annex to the main Musée Granet showcases the Jean Planque collection, featuring works by Picasso, Monet, Giacometti, and others who were influenced—directly or indirectly—by Cézanne’s revolutionary approach to form and color.
The entrance of Le Cours Mirabeau | Photo by Sofiia Asmi
Le Cours Mirabeau at Golden Hour
Cézanne rarely lingered in crowds, but he often walked Aix’s central promenade—Cours Mirabeau—at quiet hours. Join the evening hum with a glass of rosé from Château Gassier at Les Deux Garçons (temporarily closed at the moment of writing this article), the historic brasserie that Cézanne visited with friends like Émile Zola. Or find a bench and simply watch the light soften the facades and fountains.
Dinner and Reflection
End the day with a meal at Le République, a relaxed, contemporary bistro just off the city center. With its locally sourced ingredients, unfussy service, and well-priced menu du soir, it's the kind of place Cézanne might have quietly slipped into after a day of painting—no pomp, just flavor and familiarity.
Another laid-back option is Chez Jo near Place Richelme. This restaurant serves up generous wood-fired pizzas, pastas, and Provençal staples at prices that locals love. The terrace is casual, the wine list approachable, and the mood, always easygoing.
Whether you're seated under café lights or perched on a bench with takeout, Aix at night hums with a quiet charm, the streets still echoing with the past.
In the Footsteps of Cézanne
Although this vibrant city is no longer the Aix from Cézanne's time, if you move slowly through the little streets, observe the light on the building's facades, and appreciate the overlooked beauty in the details, you can still catch the essence of the late painter's beloved city.
As your day ends, don’t rush to close the notebook. Linger a little. Let the city show you what it once showed him: that the ordinary, when seen with care, becomes extraordinary.
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