In the Jungle of Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica: A Writer’s Journey Living Off-Grid
Built sustainably and lovingly protected by its founder Marleen, this off-grid gem is a true escape for conscious travelers seeking pura vida beyond the tourist trail.
A simple haven in the jungle | Photo by Karima Althea
by Karima Althea
27 de abril de 2025
In a market saturated with overhyped and overpriced luxury rentals, which prioritize maximizing profit over preserving the essence of Costa Rica's natural beauty, I discovered a hidden gem that not only offers architecture in harmony with nature but also a genuine commitment to its preservation.
Marleen, the heart and soul behind the creation of Jungle Magic Retreat, has one hectare of protected land nestled in the heart of the Caribbean jungle. This literal ‘off-the-beaten-path’ sanctuary features three affordable long-term rental off-grid treehouses and a small hut—all without walls or electricity—providing a 360-degree experience of the jungle. These simple yet innovative wooden structures are designed to minimize impact, created with eco-conscious craftsmanship that elevates the experience without sacrificing functionality.
Marleen’s property is a testament to the fact that sustainable living options are not only possible but essential amidst a plethora of capitalistic developments that neglect nature, community, and well-being.
Architecture in Harmony with the Ecosystem
The entrance into Marleen’s jungle property is almost imperceptible—a small gap in the dense greenery, right beside a silent river. Immediately, as you step into the portal, you are enveloped by the wilderness. The path is biotic, flowing naturally through the jungle, with only a few tree logs placed sporadically on the forest floor to guide your way through the muddy trails. Supposedly it is a 30-minute walk to arrive at the treehouses, but the passage transcends time altogether. Surrounded by all forms of life, each step becomes an opportunity to delve into an eternity of realms.
Above, a mother howler monkey, cradling her young, rests in the canopy, her soft gaze in harmony with the gentle zephyr that drifts through the leaves. Dragonflies oscillate in and out of your peripheral vision, their wings refracting a liquid silver glow of light, reminiscent of the dreamscape. Between the trees, intricate silken gates—spun by the orb-weaving spider guardians—stand as luminescent thresholds. Most renowned of all is the impressive butterfly population that flutters throughout the trail. An endless parade of wings adorns the path, creating a kaleidoscope of colors. The diversity of butterfly species is a direct result of Marleen's commitment to leaving the jungle largely untouched.
Howler monkeys in the treetops | Photo by Karima Althea
Where Walls Dissolve, Life Unfolds
Living in a house without walls, though not a necessity, offers a profound reminder of interconnectedness. Without physical barriers to create the illusion of separation, the boundary between humanity and the natural world disappears. It is impossible to discern where the outside world begins and where it ends, when ‘home’ permeates every aspect of existence.
The hummingbirds, with their iridescent wings, glide in and out without hesitation. The fireflies gleam like warm lanterns at nightfall, illuminating a home untouched by artificial light; they serve as organic luminaries. The geckoes that find refuge in the wooden abode lay their eggs in tucked away corners: a beautiful reminder not only of the life forms encountered daily but also of the many stages of life that unfold before you.
The off-grid lifestyle reveals the wholesome way in which everything unifies. Rainwater is collected, nurtured, and reused. Organic matter cycles through the ecosystem, and the very act of survival demands a kind of presence and mindfulness that connects you to everything around you.
There are no hidden systems, you see where the water flows, where the waste goes, and you understand how every choice you make ripples through the land and the creatures that share it with you.
It becomes clear how everything you truly need, nature provides. Living beyond the conditioned system of convenience, superficial needs and desires is a freeing experience, one that illuminates a deeper truth about life. It restores a sense of power, not only to the individual but to the spirit of nature itself. It is a call to humans to step into their role as warriors, guardians of the natural realm, where true strength is not in the force we impose, but in the way we walk in harmony with the land.
The wall-less dwelling in the jungle | Photo by Karima Althea
A Sensory Journey Through the Jungle’s Edible Wonders
Marleen’s respect for the land is not just a philosophy; it is an ongoing practice. She has curated a unique experience through El Mariposario, a guided tour through the jungle trails of her land, where she generously shares her extensive knowledge. From sustainable planting and harvesting to thriving off-grid and understanding the myriad of plants and animal species.
I recall the first time I was invited to join one of her tours where she introduced me to a host of edible plants. She passionately expressed her preference for learning about the edibles already present on her land before uprooting and replacing them with more common ones; avoiding falling into the trap of homogenizing nature for personal pleasure. She shared her belief that many of those less mainstream plants and herbs, though not widely utilized or sold, offer incredible benefits too.
With graceful precision, Marleen pulls out her machete and effortlessly slices through a fuzzy plant known as sour cane. The exterior is peeled away, revealing the cane’s inner core, which is chewed on to release its medicinal juice. She then introduces me to her lush mangosteen and biriba trees, followed by the abundance of katuk leaves that flourish all around us. She plucks a hibiscus and moringa flower and offers me their delicate petals for consumption. She shows me the roots of malinga, a Costa Rican staple, and her blossoming bananas, nearly ready for harvest.
When Marleen was asked about her plantain trees and how she ensures they grow well, she emphasized the natural process of working with the land as it is, rather than relying on external and commercial interventions. She allows a portion of the plantains and other fallen fruits to naturally nourish the soil, enriching the trees as nature intended.
For Marleen, it is about simplifying the process, following the laws of nature, rather than complicating things with artificial solutions. Working in harmony with the earth, where wisdom is valued over convenience, patience over haste, and reverence over exploitation.
Supporting Symbiotic, Sustainable Accommodations
Independent off-grid projects come with their challenges, especially in an economy where those who protect the Earth and serve humanity are often marginalized and less sought after. Therefore, choosing to financially support eco-conscious accommodations and embracing off-the-beaten-path experiences is crucial in that it helps to preserve the environment and rewards those who refuse to profit from deforestation and unsustainable practices. It equally enriches your own life and spirit. By staying in places that respect and coexist with nature, you contribute to a symbiotic relationship with the community and the environment. It is a win for everyone.
By promoting these eco-friendly accommodations in an organic way—where their very essence and word-of-mouth is what draws people in—it challenges the typical, profit-driven and forceful marketing approach, defying manipulative tactics by embodying a holistic model in all aspects.
I hope to encourage our collective role in no longer feeding the cycle of exploitative systems, where wealth is concentrated in ecocidal domains, and instead, consciously redirect economic flow toward more sustainable avenues that support Costa Rica’s pura vida.