Sleeping Beneath the Stars: A Glacier-Top Adventure in the Chilean Andes
The perfect camping adventure in the Chilean Andes. Between glaciers, stars and rivers, where you can truly reconnect with raw nature and your inner wild spirit.
Aguas de Ramon Natural Park | Photo by BCeRo
by Angelica Pajic
9 de abril de 2025
If you’re a mountain lover with a taste for adventure, Chile offers one of the most breathtaking trekking experiences just a stone’s throw from its bustling capital. Nestled only 40 minutes away from Santiago, the Parque Natural Aguas de Ramón, known locally as Hierba Loca, invites hikers to escape the chaos and immerse themselves in a landscape of towering peaks, rushing rivers, and a star-filled sky that will leave you speechless.
The hike to La Paloma glacier
The journey begins early, with two metro rides, a bus, and a bit of hitchhiking to reach the trailhead. It may sound exhausting, but I promise—it’s absolutely worth it. What awaits is a 20-kilometer hike that takes around four and a half hours (for experienced hikers), winding through arid terrain with minimal tree cover but offering stunning panoramic views at every turn. All the while, a powerful glacial river runs alongside, its voice a constant companion.
The initial part of the trail is relatively flat but soon gives way to more challenging terrain, gradually ascending as you move closer to the glacier. Despite the lack of vegetation, the landscape is anything but dull—rocky outcrops, dramatic ridges, and the sheer scale of the surrounding Andes make every step awe-inspiring.
Along the trail, expect encounters with vibrant birds, curious lizards, and the occasional goat. There are three spots where you can refill your bottle with glacial water—crystal clear, ice-cold, and possibly the most refreshing drink you’ll ever have. I can honestly say it was the most rejuvenating water I've ever tasted.
The hike culminates at the base of the La Paloma Glacier, situated at around 3,500 meters above sea level. The view is otherworldly: massive snow-covered peaks encircle you, the river glistens below, and the glacier itself looms like a sleeping giant. We reached our campsite just as the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky with pink and orange hues.
On the way to glacier La Paloma | Photo by Angelica Pajic
Camping under the stars
Setting up camp at that altitude, without traditional camping gear, was an adventure in itself. My friend and I are the “go with the flow” types—no tents, just a hammock for me and a yoga mat for him. Installing a hammock with no trees in sight turned into a full-on engineering mission. But with the help of the surrounding rocks and a bit of creativity, I secured it between two massive boulders in a natural alcove that offered wind protection. The result? A makeshift mountain "living room," complete with a panoramic view of the Andes.
Dinner was humble: tuna sandwiches and protein bars. We had no stove, no hot drinks—just the essentials and the spirit of adventure. The only thing I missed was a hot tea in the morning. Still, there’s something beautiful about simplicity, especially when you’re high in the mountains, under a moon that feels close enough to touch.
As darkness fell, the real magic began. The nearly full moon illuminated the entire valley, casting a silver sheen over the river and rocks. We explored without flashlights, guided only by moonlight and curiosity. The atmosphere was surreal—the moonlight reflecting on the water created a soft, ethereal glow that lit our way better than any headlamp could.
We nearly reached the waterfall we had planned to visit the next morning, but decided to save the final ascent and instead sat down in silence, overwhelmed by gratitude. Gratitude for the view, for our legs that carried us here, for Pachamama, for life itself. There’s a richness in these moments that no city can replicate.
That night, a few curious mice attempted (unsuccessfully) to get into our food. I slept cocooned in my hammock, rocked gently by the wind, feeling like a caterpillar preparing for metamorphosis. My friend, surprisingly, had an equally restful night on the sandy floor, shielded by the surrounding rocks.
Camping under the stars | Photo by Angelica Pajic
The return trek
Morning greeted us with golden light creeping over the peaks. The sound of the river—always present—welcomed us back to consciousness. After brushing our teeth and grabbing a quick bite, we returned to the waterfall, now fully visible and breathtaking. The water crashed down from the glacier above, impossibly clear and pure. We dipped our feet in the freezing stream to wake up our tired muscles before beginning the trek back. The sensation was both invigorating and grounding—a reminder of the sheer power and purity of nature.
The descent was more demanding than expected. Sore from the previous day, we paused often. A sandwich break and several water stops helped, and eventually, we returned to the road. Amazingly, the same man who had given us a ride the day before spotted us again and offered a lift back to Santiago. The kindness of strangers is something that never fails to surprise and humble me while traveling.
By the time we returned to the city, our bodies were aching but our spirits were lighter than ever. Experiences like this have a way of shaking off the heaviness of everyday life and reconnecting you with what truly matters—nature, freedom, and the joy of pushing your limits.
For anyone with a love for mountains and wild adventure, Hierba Loca is an unforgettable weekend escape. It’s a reminder of how alive we can feel when we unplug from the world and reconnect with nature.
Travel Tips for the Adventurer
Pack Smart: Bring your essentials—hammock, sleeping bag, flashlight (preferably a headlamp), protein bars, plenty of water, and a thermal blanket.
Don’t Forget Sunscreen and Lip Balm: At high altitudes with little shade, sun protection is a must.
Footwear Counts: Wear comfortable hiking shoes and carry blister patches just in case.
Capture the Moment: I always carry my Olympus II analog camera. There’s something magical about capturing nature on film.
Minimal Cooking? No Problem: If you’re not bringing cooking tools, stock up on nutritious, no-prep foods. Sandwiches, chocolate, and protein bars go a long way.
Go with a Good Friend: Adventures are better shared.
Mind the Moon: If you can, plan your trip around a full or nearly full moon for an unforgettable nighttime experience.
Stay Grateful: The most powerful fuel for an adventure like this is gratitude—for the view, for the experience, for the wild spirit within you.
Respect Nature: Leave no trace. Take only pictures and memories, and always bring back your trash.
Layer Up: Even in summer, temperatures drop significantly at night in the mountains. Layered clothing is essential.